Личаківський цвинтар - Lychakiv Cemetery (L'viv)

One of the best places to go in L'viv? The cemetery.

No, I'm not going all emo on you, Lychakiv Cemetery really is a great place to begin or end your sightseeing in L’viv. It enables you to not only fully experience the turbulent history of L'viv, but also experience truly magnificent art. All of which is handily tucked away in a quiet corner of the city.

From its creation in 1787, Lychakiv has been the final resting place of the well to do or politically connected in L'viv. Over 400,000 have been laid to rest in Lychakiv and maybe that will give you some kind of idea regarding the collossal nature of the cemetery. It's very easy to get lost in Lychakiv as pathways (unlike any other cemetery that I’ve experienced) wind up and down through the peaks and troughs of the cemetery’s unusual topography.

Hilly, almost overgrown

But getting lost in a place like this is a good thing because around every corner you'll find a surprise. Some of the tombs are architecturally beyond description in words. Stumbling around the cemetery you’re bound to connect with the quintessential nature of L'viv - A German soldier, next to a Polish architect, next to a hero of Ukrainian literature. What might come as a small shock is that the Soviet memorials, although maybe slightly less pretentious, fit in perfectly against the backdrop of tombs and crypts of the wealthy Polish intelligentsia.

Also nice to see is the fact that the huge Polish memorial and the monolithic Ukrainian memorial to the Polish - Ukrainian War stand side by side. Ok maybe in its inception, a lot of Ukrainian nationals were against a Polish memorial existing, I think now it is the perfect complement to the cemetery creating a great juxtaposition for locals and tourists alike. It also brings focus on an interesting point in Polish history, regarding the 'Eaglets', or the child soldiers who fought and died for Poland in the 1918-1919 war.

Polish memorial - beautifully maintained

Rumour has it that the tombs of Stepan Bandera and other Ukrainian nationalists are to be moved to Lychakiv meaning the cemetery is likely to continue to be a talking point and place of interest for many years to come. 

It might be a little way outside the city centre, but with only a 10UAH entry fee - it’s the perfect bargain. Especially for people who are short of time in L'viv and want to experience something with a tangible connection to L'viv: past and present.